Tequila! Veteran cocktail purveyor opening agave bar to transport patrons to Mexico City
Niki Willis is opening her first bar after more than 25 years working at places like The Common, Fu's Repair Shop, and Dolly's Cocktail Bar.
Coco's Cocktails & Agave Bar will be located in the basement of the downtown Sylbert building on 105 Street near Jasper Avenue. Willis told Taproot she's aiming to open by early October. She is already giving Edmonton a taste of what's to come with pop-ups, including a reggaeton-forward patio party with WusYaName at Dolly's on Aug. 31.
As the Coco's opening approaches, Willis said she's hoping the bar will respond to changing consumer desires and fill an agave-shaped niche.
"We need to start listening to what people want," Willis, whose full title is owner, drink-maker, and vibe-setter, said. "I know what I want for Coco's, but I'm not going to be the person that is going to be spending the money at the bar. I need people to come and spend money, so I need to listen to what the people want."
Willis is partly talking about Gen Z. This year, ISWR, a global firm that analyzes the drinks industry, found that Gen Z is drinking more than they used to. This differs from earlier notions that Gen Z drinks less and goes out to bars less than older generations. Willis has three offspring in their early 20s, so has her own take on the topic. She said Gen Z has distinct preferences that the hospitality industry must meet to survive. They are that Gen Z patrons have little disposable income while drinks have gotten more expensive, they prefer to spend their income at places that are attractive to share online, and many of them came of age when nightlife paused during the COVID-19 pandemic.
"A lot of them can't afford a $15, $16, or $17 cocktail — but they do want to go out," Willis said. "Life is a lot different from when we were going out at their age … Unfortunately, a lot of these kids had to sit at home for three years and not socialize. It's a different world for them."
Willis said she will create a cave-like vibe at Coco's and figuratively transport guests to Mexico City. Speaking to the The Tomato earlier this year, she also said Coco's will be "dark, tropical, and sexy." The tone is informed by fellow co-owner Megs Miller, Willis's best friend and the person who introduced her to artisan cocktail-making. Miller owns two bars, in Mexico City and Tamarindo, Costa Rica, respectively, where she focuses on agave spirits. (The other co-owner of Coco's is Janelle Jimenez.)
"There are probably three people in the world that have (Miller's) knowledge," Willis said. "When it comes to agave spirits, she's one of the top (experts) in the world."
What are agave spirits, exactly? The two best-known spirits made from the agave plant are tequila and mezcal. Both spirits have legal restrictions on where and how one can make them, which is why Coco's uses the broader term to encompass its offerings. Beyond the famous forms of agave spirits, Willis said there are countless varietals because the agave plant has hundreds of species. Raicilla is one example of another agave spirit, Willis said.
Willis and her collaborators have prepared agave cocktails for the Aug. 31 event, including some canned ones available for off-sale. One is a coconut margarita that incorporates a clear-coloured sour mix instead of the traditional lime juice, and another is a coffee-based drink that riffs on the carajillo cocktail and should please fans of espresso martinis, Willis said.
